r. Eggs

Besides which came first, the chicken or the egg, many conundrums still plague the egg. One of those is the status of the egg on our table, from a historic mankind savior through tough times to a cheap commodity now, further tarnished by its very richness and its cholesterol content (which is not an issue for moderate consumption).

I used to go and fetch freshly laid eggs in the coop as a child. The daily crop was erratic, as it should be in nature. The greatest joy was to find the warm ones, just produced, that I would mark as mine with a lead pencil. At the time I did not ask myself overly intellectual questions, like if what I was doing was a gathering or hunting activity, but I already did sense the fundamental and magical aspects of egg production and of life itself.

Now, I have to pause to marvel again at the many wonders of a chicken egg. Its shell, its shape, its richness, and its chemical composition allowing so many different uses for our benefit, from emulsions and sauces to custards and pastries. It is even used in the wine making process! (1)

The eggs you will find anywhere taste pretty much the same as they come from the same hens fed more or less the same type of food. Only if you decide to raise your own hens, or know someone who does, will you have the opportunity to experience subtle but noticeable improvements. (2)

However, eggs can be cooked in many ways, and every time, they taste pleasantly different.

 Mayonnaise

Despite all the lore and rumors, it is easy to make a mayonnaise, this mother of all emulsions. Making your own, always different, will instantly place you on the cooks’ podium and provide you with pleasures no ready-made mix can ever approach.

You will need:

×           1 egg yolk,

×           the same volume of Dijon mustard ,

×           a lot of oil, peanut and olive

×           1 tbsp. vinegar or lemon juice

×           Salt and pepper

×           Additional seasoning if you wish, 2 pinches of curry for example.

Place the egg yolk in your favorite “lucky” mayonnaise cup, the one whose shape fits the approximate quantity you intend to make and your whisking movements, the one that always works.

Add the mustard and whisk thoroughly with a small whisk or a simple fork.

Now add the oil slowly while continuing to whisk. A few drops first, whisk, then a tablespoon, whisk. You will see that it works, at which time you can go a little bit faster.

I have found it is easier for me not to start directly with olive oil, but to switch to it after the emulsion is well on its way.

You will see the sauce going from liquid to cream to gel (almost).

You probably have enough mayonnaise now. And you are tired.

Season with salt, pepper and vinegar or lemon (or even lime). Some herb may be welcome. Whisk again. Serve and eat right away: made with raw egg yolk, this sauce is not designed to keep.

Frying an Egg

Along with boiling water, frying an egg is often considered the simplest task for an apprentice cook. It is true that we do it generally without too much thinking but we would do well to apply some care so that we achieve the most rewarding result for our taste. I can identify three variables we can play with: the cooking medium (oil or butter), the heat setting, and the size of the pan in relation with the eggs being fried.

Personally, I like a firm white and a runny yolk. If I want to treat myself, I will use butter, whose taste marries very well with eggs, a very low heat, and a very small pan to prevent spreading. I will serve myself first. For all those who prefer longer-cooked eggs or cannot stand the sight of a runny yolk, I will let the eggs cook for a few more minutes, adding a lid.

Omelet with Green Garlic (or Chives)

Beyond fried and scrambled, I have to mention the omelet. This dish was one of my father’s specialties. He could roll a large 12-egg-omelet in a pan far too small for it and still achieve a beautiful shape with the desired moistness inside. After a 4-hour Sunday lunch for the extended family, he would make one or two omelets for dinner, in general with chives from the garden, which are aptly called “appétits” in that area of France.

The omelet I relish the most uses the seasonal green garlic which is at once pungent and delicate. The modus operandi could not be simpler:

Beat the eggs in a bowl with salt, pepper, and a good amount of chopped green garlic.

Heat up an oiled pan on high heat. Pour the egg batter in the pan and start cooking on high heat until a skin forms on the bottom of the pan, at which time you can push it away from you with a spatula, and start folding it toward you with the spatula and a jerking of the pan. Some new batter will then come in contact with the pans’s bottom. Continue rolling until the whole omelet is folded over. (3)

Serve immediately as the inside continues cooking in the serving dish and it’s better hot anyway.

So Many Other Omelets

When you want to convince visitors to stay over for dinner although your refrigerator looks almost empty, you can whip up a proper meal in no time with a few leftovers tossed into an omelet: green peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, asparagus, artichoke, ham, prosciutto or bacon. Everything works.

Add a refreshing green salad. These impromptu meals can really be the best!

Soft-Boiled Eggs (Oeufs à la Coque) and Coddled Eggs

Everyone has tasted hard-boiled eggs, either in the famed deviled-egg salad no 4^th of July could do without, or standing alone. They were once a staple in French cafés, nicely perched on a specific contraption on the counter, with salt and pepper shakers close by.

If you have good fresh eggs and a good baguette to make bread sticks with, you should try the made-to-order soft-boiled version for your next Sunday breakfast.

Lower an egg gently into boiling water and let it cook for 3 minutes.

Take it out and place it on an egg stand with the pointy side on top.

Cut the top out by tapping laterally with a knife.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Start dipping your bread sticks, toasted or not.

In the end, allow yourself to scrape the remaining white inside the shell with a small stainless steel spoon. This is a real treat, a way to become a child again.

If you can find egg-coddlers, a charming British porcelain container with a convenient screw-on top, you can place them in boiling water for 3 to 4 minutes to cook your eggs. This would even allow you to “improve” over the natural egg in its shell, by adding other ingredients: Butter? Caviar? Truffle? Cheese? Ranchero sauce?

(1)    These are well laid out by Harold McGee in his book, On Food and Cooking. This book is a must read if you want to understand what you are doing and speed up your experience curve.

(2)    This would be a rewarding activity but probably requires too much time and effort, unless you are retired, a young parent eager to teach some values or you live on farm.

(3)    Non-stick pans work better for this delicate activity.